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Artificial turf putting area beside a pond surrounded by red rock formations with a desert modern home behind it

St. George, Utah

Practice Every Day. Water Nothing.

Custom-contoured synthetic putting greens built to the roll speed you ask for, with real cups, proper sub-drainage, and a fringe collar you can chip onto. Zero irrigation, zero mowing, playable in February.

9–11
Typical stimp
2–4
Day build
15–20
Year lifespan
365
Playable days

Why Build One

The Base Is The Whole Game

Anyone can roll green turf across a flat patch of yard. What separates a green you still use in year five from one that becomes expensive decoration is everything underneath it: how precisely the aggregate was screeded, whether the contours were shaped into the base or faked at the surface, and whether each cup drains.

We build the shape first. Ridges, subtle tiers, and fall-offs get compacted into the base so your putts actually break — which is the difference between practicing and rolling balls across a carpet. Then the surface gets screeded to a far tighter tolerance than a standard lawn, because a few millimeters of inconsistency is a putt that misses.

The result is a surface that reads true, holds its speed, drains after a monsoon, and never needs water, mowing, rolling, or top-dressing. In St. George that also means it is playable in January when actual courses are slow and overseeded.

Aerial view of a curved artificial turf installation with a clean concrete border beside a tile-roof desert home

How We Build

Built Like A Real Green

True-roll surface

Short-pile, high-density putting turf with silica infill brushed to a consistent depth so the ball tracks straight and holds its line.

Shaped base

Contours, tiers, ridges, and fall-offs are built into compacted aggregate before the turf goes down. The shape is permanent, not a surface trick.

Cup sub-drainage

Regulation cups set with dedicated drainage beneath each one, so rain and rinse water leave the hole instead of standing in it.

Fringe collar

A longer-pile collar around the perimeter that frames the green, holds a chip, and transitions cleanly into lawn, hardscape, or gravel.

Desert-rated

UV-stabilized fiber and heat-reflective infill specified for full-sun Southern Utah exposure so color and roll hold up.

Finish details

Optional sand traps, lighting integration for evening putting, flagsticks, and markers set at your chosen distances.

Sizing

How Much Space Do You Need?

A rough guide based on greens we have built. We will confirm what fits during the on-site design walk.

FootprintCupsWhat it supports
150–250 sq ft1–2Side yard or patio-edge green. Short putts, gentle break, daily reps.
250–500 sq ft2–3The most common residential build. Real contour, varied putt lengths, fringe collar.
500–800 sq ft3–4Multiple tiers, longer lag putts, and a dedicated chipping approach.
800+ sq ft4–6Short-game complex territory — chipping areas, sand traps, lighting for evenings.

Build Process

Design to First Putt

  1. 01

    Design on site

    We walk the yard, mark the footprint, and sketch cup placement, contour, and fringe based on how you actually want to practice.

  2. 02

    Excavate & shape

    Existing material is removed, then aggregate is built up and compacted in lifts to form the ridges, tiers, and fall-offs.

  3. 03

    Screed to tolerance

    The fine layer is screeded and compacted to a much tighter tolerance than a lawn — this is what produces a predictable roll.

  4. 04

    Turf, cups & infill

    Turf is seamed and stretched, cups are set with drainage, infill is brushed in, and we putt it with you before signing off.

Worth Considering

Add Lighting And Putt After Dark

Because we install both services, we can integrate app-controlled lighting around the green while the trenching is already open. One crew, one schedule, one warranty call if anything ever needs attention.

Explore Permanent Lighting
  • Lighting around the green for evening practice
  • Scheduled on at sunset, off at your bedtime
  • Same crew, same visit, no second contractor
  • One point of contact for service on both

Putting Green Questions

Before You Build

How much space do I need for a backyard putting green?
A functional two-cup green starts around 250 to 300 square feet. At 500 to 800 square feet you can build real contour, three or four cups, and meaningful variety in your putts. We have also built narrow 150-square-foot greens along a side yard that get used every day — the right answer depends on your yard, not a minimum.
How fast will my green roll?
We build to the speed you ask for. Most homeowners land between 9 and 11 on the Stimpmeter, which reads quick but stays playable for family and kids. Faster greens need flatter contours to remain fair, so speed and slope get decided together during design.
Can you add contours, tiers, and breaks?
Yes. Contour is shaped into the base before any turf goes down, using compacted aggregate to build ridges, subtle tiers, and fall-offs. This is the single biggest difference between a green that stays interesting and a flat green that gets boring in a month.
Can I chip onto it?
Yes, with the right build. We add a longer-pile fringe collar around the green that holds a ball and accepts a pitch, and can extend into a dedicated chipping area with its own turf spec. Tell us at design time so we spec the base and infill depth to take the impact.
What goes under a putting green?
More than a standard lawn. Putting greens need a tighter base tolerance, finer aggregate screeded nearly perfectly flat, and sub-drainage at each cup so water does not collect in the hole. The putting surface is a short-pile, high-density nylon or polypropylene turf with silica infill brushed to a consistent depth.
How much maintenance does a putting green need?
Brush it in a few directions every couple of months to keep the fibers upright and the roll consistent, rinse it occasionally, and blow off debris. No mowing, rolling, watering, top-dressing, or aeration.
Will it work in full St. George sun?
Yes. The turf is UV-stabilized and the infill we use in full-sun installs is heat-reflective. Like any synthetic surface it runs warmer than shaded natural grass in direct afternoon sun, and a quick rinse brings the temperature down fast.
How long does a putting green take to build?
Most residential greens take two to four days. The base work and contouring are the bulk of it — the turf itself goes down relatively quickly once the shaping is right.

Free Design Visit

Let's Design Your Green.

We walk the yard, mark a footprint, talk through contour and cup placement, and give you a written price. No charge and no obligation.

(888) 306-2413Call or text anytime
  • Free on-site estimate
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  • 24-hour response